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Avocado - Fujikawa - Summer, autumn and winter ripening

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$120.00
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Fujikawa is a fantastic variety developed in Hawaii, which is now grown worldwide. The tree is a consistent bearer of heavy crops annually, with the added bonus of the fruit hanging on to the tree for months when ready to pick. The fruit are small - medium sized, and remain green when ripe. The flesh of Fujikawa is of a very high quality, with a more dense texture than most other avocado varieties, and a creamy, rich, buttery taste. The flesh colour is also a nice dark yellow, and makes the most amazing avocado on toast or guacamole. Our favourite thing about Fujikawa, after being a superb eating avocado, is the long fruiting season. Fruit start ripening in January, and ripen right through until around May, but hang on the tree into June and sometimes July.  

  • Flower Type: B
  • Colour when ripe: Green
  • Fruit shape: Pear (pyriform) to oval
  • Fruit size: Small - Medium
  • Seed size: Medium
  • Fruit quality/taste: Very good, buttery, dense and creamy
  • Harvest season: January - May
  • Type: Guatemalan
  • Origin: Hawaii

While Fujikawa is usually grown for its high quality, tasty fruit, it is also a B variety, making it a fantastic pollinator tree for any of the common A types like Hass, Reed, Esther etc.

Avocado care guide

Just arrived? Keep your tree in a sheltered, semi-shaded spot for 2–4 weeks before planting. See our acclimation guide.

1. Drainage is everything

More avocados die from wet roots (Phytophthora root rot) than anything else. Plant on a mound 40–60 cm high (go higher on heavy clay) using a free-draining mix. Never dig a hole into clay; it fills with water like a bucket. Keep the graft union above the soil.

2. Water the root ball, not the calendar

For the first year, the root ball dries out faster than the soil around it. Check 5 cm down and water deeply only when it's dry. In summer that's usually once or twice a week, more often on sandy soil or in a heatwave. In winter, you'll barely need to water.

3. Mulch thick, but keep it off the trunk

Put 10–15 cm of coarse wood chip or bark out to the drip line, with a 10 cm gap around the trunk. Avocado feeder roots are shallow, so don't dig or plant anything around the base, and keep lawn well away.

4. Feed little and often

Give small feeds of a balanced fertiliser (one with zinc and boron) in spring, summer and early autumn. Don't feed in winter. Spread it at the drip line, keep it 40 cm from the trunk, and water it in.

5. Stake and tie it properly

Young avocados need firm support against the wind from the day you plant. Put in two big, sturdy stakes, one on each side of the tree. Tie soft strips of woollen cloth across between the two stakes, looping them around the trunk, at two heights. This holds the tree firmly in the middle, and the soft cloth won't rub or cut into the bark.

Young avocado tree held between two wooden stakes with soft woollen cloth ties at two heights

Two stakes with soft woollen cloth tied across at two heights. The tree is held firmly in the middle without damaging the bark.

6. Shelter young trees for 2–3 years

A windbreak around a young tree really helps it grow faster. We wrap clear plastic around four tall stakes to make a sleeve around each young tree. Leave the sleeve open at the top and keep it a little below the top of the tree, so the trunk and lower branches are sheltered while the top still gets plenty of sun and air. Windbreak cloth also works well in exposed spots.

Young avocado trees in clear plastic windbreak sleeves on four wooden stakes

Young avocados in our orchard, each with its own clear plastic windbreak on four tall stakes.

Clear plastic windbreak sleeve around a young avocado tree, open at the top

Open at the top and sitting just below the top of the tree, so the trunk is sheltered while the top still gets sun and air.

Use frost cloth when frost is forecast (young trees are damaged around -1 to -2°C). Paint exposed trunks with white water-based paint diluted 50:50 to prevent sunburn.

7. Let the tree grow before it fruits

Pick off any fruit in the first 1–2 years so the tree puts its energy into branches and roots. Only prune to remove dead wood or keep the tree in shape.

What's normal (don't panic)

  • Old leaves dropping in spring: normal. Avocados shed old leaves as they flower and push new growth.
  • Brown, crispy leaf tips: usually salt or fertiliser burn, or dry roots. Flush with a deep watering and ease off on feeding.
  • Most flowers and tiny fruit dropping: normal. Avocados produce thousands of flowers and set only a few.
  • Yellowing leaves and wilting in wet soil: a root rot warning sign. Stop watering and check drainage.

Want more detail? Read our full Avocado Tree Care Guide or planting in clay soil.

Avocado - Fujikawa - Summer, autumn and winter ripening flyingdragonnursery